Frequently Asked Questions

An OE part (Original Equipment, sometimes sold as a "genuine" part) is the component the vehicle maker fitted at the factory, or one supplied through the maker's own brand and box. An aftermarket part is made by an independent manufacturer to fit and function the same way, but it is sold under that company's own brand and part number. The common assumption is that genuine always means better. In practice that is not the case. Many aftermarket makers actually produce the original parts for the vehicle brand and then sell the same component under their own label, often at a lower price. What matters is that the part meets the right specification for your vehicle and, for safety-critical items, the relevant safety standard. A well-chosen aftermarket part can match OE quality; a poorly chosen one will not. The point of a parts catalog like this is to make that match clear, so you can see which aftermarket parts correspond to a given OE number.

A cross-reference, also called a part interchange, links an OE part number to the aftermarket parts that share the same shape, size, fit, and function. In other words, it tells you which other parts can replace the original. This matters for a few practical reasons. If the original part is out of stock or hard to find, a cross-reference points you to equivalents that are available. It also lets you compare options across brands instead of being locked into one supplier, which can mean better availability or a better price. And it removes guesswork: instead of hoping a part fits, you start from a number you already trust and follow it to its proven equivalents. On each part page here, the cross-reference is shown as the OE number it matches and the other brands that cross to the same OE.

For most parts, a properly cross-referenced aftermarket component is built to the same fit, form, and function as the OE part, so compatibility is not the problem people often expect. The real question is quality, and that varies by manufacturer rather than by the label "aftermarket" itself. A sensible approach is to look at what kind of part it is. For wear and routine items, a reputable aftermarket brand is usually a sound, cost-effective choice. For safety-critical systems such as brakes, steering, and anything in the air or electrical system, it is worth sticking to recognised manufacturers that meet the applicable safety standards, and confirming the cross-reference is exact rather than approximate. The goal is not to avoid aftermarket parts, but to choose the right brand for the job.

Start with the OE number printed on the original part or listed in your records. Search for that number, and the part page will show the aftermarket brands that cross to it, each with its own brand part number. The useful detail is that compatibility on this site runs in both directions. From an OE part you can see every aftermarket brand that replaces it; from an aftermarket part you can see the OE it matches and the other brands that cross to that same OE. So once you have a single reliable number, you can move out to all of its equivalents and back again, which is exactly how you widen your options without losing the certainty of the original fit.

The most reliable starting point is the part number. If a part cross-references to the OE number used on your vehicle, it is designed to match the original's fit and function. Reading the cross-reference is therefore the first and strongest compatibility check. Beyond the number, it helps to confirm the part description and category match what you are replacing, and, where listed, that it applies to your vehicle type. For anything you are unsure about, or for safety-critical parts, treat the catalog information as a strong guide and have it confirmed against the vehicle's own documentation or by a qualified mechanic before fitting. A catalog reduces the guesswork; it does not replace a final check on the vehicle itself.

It depends on the part and on where you are. Some jobs are well within reach of a careful owner: replacing filters, wiper blades, bulbs, cleaning battery terminals, and similar routine items. Others should go to a professional regardless of skill, especially anything in the braking, steering, air, or electrical systems, where a mistake affects safety directly. A good rule of thumb is simple: if getting it wrong could put the vehicle or people at risk, have a qualified mechanic do it. Repair culture also differs by region. In much of North America and Europe, owner-operators commonly do a fair amount of their own maintenance, and detailed how-to material is easy to find. In markets such as South Korea, repairs are typically handled through dedicated workshops and the manufacturer's authorised service centres rather than done at home; for those vehicles the practical route is to take the part to a nearby workshop or an authorised service centre, where they can confirm fit and carry out the work. Either way, identifying the correct part first — which is what this catalog is for — makes the repair faster and cheaper whoever ends up doing it. One caution: anything that affects braking, steering, the air system, or electrical safety should be left to a qualified mechanic regardless of how confident you feel. This is general guidance, not a substitute for professional judgement or your vehicle's service manual.

When several brands all match the same OE number, they are interchangeable in fit and function, so the choice comes down to other factors rather than "will it work." A bigger brand name does not automatically mean a better part — smaller makers are often competitive precisely because they price keenly against the well-known names. Reasonable things to weigh are the manufacturer's reputation for that specific type of part, whether the cross-reference is exact, and for safety-critical components, whether the brand meets the relevant standards. For a routine wear item, a solid mid-tier brand at a good price is usually sensible; for a critical system, lean toward a manufacturer with a strong track record in that area. The value of seeing all the options on one page is that you can make that judgement deliberately instead of taking whatever a single supplier happens to stock.

You do not always need a number to start. You can search by the part's name or describe what it is, and you can browse by category — that is, by the system the part belongs to, such as brakes, engine, or electrical. Working down from a category often gets you to the right family of parts quickly when a number is not at hand. Once you reach a likely candidate, the catalog gives you the part numbers and cross-references, so you can confirm you have the right item before going further. In short, a number is the fastest path, but the name and the category structure are there for the very common case where you are starting from the part itself rather than from paperwork.

The single most important rule is that the manufacturer's manual for your specific vehicle is always the final word. Service intervals depend on the engine, the oil specification, the load you carry, and your driving conditions, so the figures below are general industry guidance, not exact numbers for any one truck. As a rough orientation: engine oil and the oil filter on commercial diesels are commonly changed somewhere in the range of roughly 24,000–40,000 km (about 15,000–25,000 miles), with modern synthetic-capable engines sometimes going further — always check the OEM spec. Air and fuel filters are typically in the 24,000–48,000 km range (around 15,000–30,000 miles). Brake pads vary widely with how the vehicle is driven, often in the region of 32,000–80,000 km (about 20,000–50,000 miles). Heavier loads, stop-and-go city work, dusty conditions, and long idling hours all shorten these intervals, which is why many operators also track engine hours, not just distance. Treat these as a starting point and inspect regularly rather than waiting for a fixed number. For the exact intervals that apply to your truck, check the vehicle's own manual or ask an authorised service centre — these depend on your specific model and how the vehicle is used, and the figures here are general guidance only.

Parts are grouped by the functional system they belong to — for example engine, transmission and drivetrain, brakes, suspension and steering, electrical and lighting, cooling, exhaust, fuel and air intake, filters, and so on. This mirrors how the industry talks about a vehicle: not as one object, but as a set of systems that each do a job. Thinking in systems makes a large catalog far easier to navigate. If you know a problem is in the cooling system, you can move straight to that group rather than scrolling through thousands of unrelated items. It also helps when you are exploring rather than searching for one exact number — you can see the family of parts around the one you care about. General fasteners and hardware that are not tied to a single system are grouped on their own so they do not clutter the functional categories.